If you're moderately handy with tools, /Ain't Skerd/™ of removing the tank, and can bleed a hydraulic system, this is for you. Click on the pictures for something Grampa can read without a magnifier.

• I used 10, 12, 14, and 17mm combo wrenches.
• A # 3 phillips driver or the allen wrench Murph includes in his Most Excellent body screw kit. Order one up today! Available in traditional black (plated stainless), as well as natural stainless. Phillips (stainless only) or button allen head too!
• A pair of side (diagonal) cutters.
• A short chunk of clear hose (see below).
• A wad of rags. * And about 2 oz of DOT-4 brake fluid.
• Sam in a 1994 CA model if you're curious.

At a bare minimum remove the gas tank, LH side fairing inner section... the one with the pocket, and the LH battery access side cover... the one with the clear plastic window that ain't there.

You will be working very close to the positive battery terminal, you would be wise to remove one of the cables from the battery as a precaution. Shorting the battery is **not** a pretty picture. Don't be a dope trying to save a few minutes, you need to reset the clock from/to daylight savings time anyway.

Attach a short length of tubing to the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw, placing the open end in a suitable container (old coffee can works for me). I used a spare battery overflow tube. Clip the tube to the can with a closepin if you want. Loosen the bleed screw a quarter turn or so.

 

Wad an old rag under the clutch master cylinder just in case. Brake fluid has been known to discolor paint. Tie the clutch handle to the grip. This prevents the reservoir from draining when you remove the old hose.

Remove the clutch master cylinder banjo bolt. Remove the clutch slave cylinder banjo bolt, be prepared to catch the fluid at the lower end of the clutch line. An old rag comes in handy here also.

Remove the rubber cover at the joint between the upper flexible clutch line, and the lower steel line. Just in back of the stem, it's pre split. Using two wrenches, separate the joint.

There may be a nylon band clamp holding the clutch line to one of the frame members near the battery box. Snip it, toss it. Remove the steel line from the bike. It may help to snip the line is several places with a sturdy set of side cutters.

Here's the parts. The upper section of old rubber line, two pieces of steel line, the lower line.

The coiled line is the new Goodridge clutch line, two new banjo bolts, and six (two are spares) new copper crush washers. This picture doesn't do the Goodridge line justice, it's real purdy. The floor color is Avocodo green, read: mid 60's

Take two pieces of plastic electricians tape, and tape the banjo ends of the new line. I suspect the Handyman's Secret Weapon (duct tape) will work also. This will help keep crud out of the line as you feed the new line (from the clutch slave cylinder end) up through and around the frame. I started near the airbox. The bent banjo fitting attaches to the slave cylinder BTW, make sure it's on the down side :)

Dry fit both ends to see if the line needs a half twist to allow the lower end to fit without bending. Place a new crush washer (using the old ones is just asking for trouble) on the new banjo bolt, slip this through the hose end, add another crush washer. Start the banjo bolts by hand, snug them up hand tight for now. Check for kinks, check for routing, check for any thing that may chafe the line over time, fix it now! Tighten both banjo bolts to recommended torque.

I left the OEM rubber banjo cover off the upper end for a weight savings of 8 grams. The new banjo bolts are chromed, and lighter too. Don't try to catch me coming out of a corner.

I don't know about your bike, but on Sam the old line ran *under* the oil fill plug. Note how nice the SS line looks now?

Another picture of the line routing near the steering stem.

Bleed the system, it shouldn't take much. I hear a mighty-vac is handy, I use the tried and true method.

Here's a little tip I picked up at the Tech Session at the 1999 COG National. Prop the gas tank up with a block of wood before you reattach the overflow lines, sender unit plug, and gas and vacuum fitting. As Boomer would say, easy peasy. Check the clutch action again, install any remaining pieces you took off, go ride :)